Celine's Bistro celebrates 1 year

WANTAGE — The geography books don’t show it, but tucked into the countryside along Route 23 North in Wantage is a little slice of Louisiana.

Although not obvious in a visual sense, it is clear to the taste buds of the patrons at Celine’s Bistro, they have crossed a state line.

Celine’s Bistro is still a relatively new establishment, having celebrated its 1-year anniversary on Jan. 15. Mike Costa, the Bistro’s gregarious owner and the husband of Celine herself, brims with pride as he talks about his restaurant.

“This is something I’ve always wanted to do,” he says, “But it was a huge commitment. I have been thinking about starting a Cajun restaurant for 10 years. Now the kids are old enough, and I finally had the time and money to do it.”

Costa has always loved Louisiana food.

“Celine and I traveled extensively throughout the state, and we have local friends who showed us what the tourists don’t see," Costa said. "New Orleans has a lot of Creole food, while in Lafayette it’s Cajun. Creole food is mainly tomato-based, while Cajun-style food is roux-based (roux being a tasty blend of fat and flour that acts as a thickener). Both styles use what is known as the Cajun trinity — onions, celery and peppers.”

Costa is a stickler for freshness.

“Everything here is made to order,” he says. “We don’t have a big pot of gumbo bubbling in the kitchen all day.” With the exception of ice cream and sorbet, even the desserts are made in-house by the chef, Jimmy Sasso, whose own interest in cooking began in his early teens and was enhanced by a degree in culinary arts.

Things heat up even more at Celine’s during crawfish season, which generally lasts from February into July.

“The crawfish are flown in live and fresh from Louisiana. Sometimes they’re even caught on the same day,” Costa said. “Either I or the manager, Craig, will pick them up ourselves from the airport.”

Crawfish boils are a major event. As might be expected, the crawfish are boiled to order.

“We have the corn, onions and potatoes parboiled in spicy water.”

This allows the crawfish to be boiled to perfection.

“You won’t get any limp crawfish here,” says Costa.

The game room downstairs has pool tables and also hosts comedy shows and live bands. Outside, other events beginning in late spring include live music and even live boxing matches.

Though Bourbon Street may be far away, any Louisianan would feel right at home in Sussex County at Celine’s Bistro.